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Situated in the heart of the Tyrolean Alps, Ischgl in Austria, is known for its stunning landscape, charming alpine chalets and world-class skiing. However, there’s more to this enchanting destination than just winter sports. In recent years, Ischgl has embraced a new wave of eco-friendly adventure sports, and one of the most exciting events on its calendar is the E-Bike World Championship.

Ischgl

The popularity of electric bikes, or e-bikes, has surged in recent years, with riders of all ages and skill levels discovering the joys of assisted pedalling – particularly for tackling the steepest of alpine slopes. The E-Bike World Championship in Ischgl is a multi-day event that includes various categories, ensuring that riders of all levels can join in the excitement.

I’m offered the chance to complete in the EVERYONE class but choose to watch it from the sidelines. Instead I get my own guide who leads me round some of the slopes. Even better, we take our bikes as far as we dare and then hike to the summits on foot.

Day 1 Ischgl to Rauher Kopf – 7 hours

Trail up Ischgl Valley

Early morning mist greets us as we set out up the valley. The trail is first asphalt, then dirt and climbs gently to the village of Mathon at 1454m.   We cross the river and start ascending through the forest in a series of switchbacks.

It’s steep in places and I’m glad for the electrical assistance – the trick is to make sure that you’re in a low enough gear for the motor to kick in. After 40 minutes we’ve reached Larein Alpe at 1,850 m and abandon our bikes

It’s now a long traverse on foot across the side of the valley, first level and then climbing steeply. Initially there’s forest but we’re soon above the treeline and are rewarded with magnificent views of the Silvretta mountain range, still with a dusting of snow.

It’s a fairly tough walk and I pick wild blueberries on the way for extra energy. After two hours, there’s a final push to the summit of Rauher Kopf at 2478m. The top is marked with a cross and we can see Ischgl laid out in the valley below.  

We retrace our steps and pick up our bikes. There’s an option to divert to see the Berglisee but I’ve had enough for one day, so we cycle back down. The downhill requires extreme concentration as any tumble could spell disaster. From the valley floor, it’s a short ride to a fish lunch at the Wildererhütte between Mathon and Ischgl.

Trout Lunch

Day 2 Ischgl to Hohe Köpfe – 5 hours    

The day dawns bright and sunny and I’m still aching from yesterday’s exertions. We follow the same route up the valley, along the edge of the forest, but don’t cross the river at Mathon. Instead we carry on past Preserau to Valzur where the track climbs in a series of wide hairpins.

We reach the Friedrichshafener Hütte at 2,138 m and stop for a coffee and a rest. The refuge sits next to a small lake and offers a fantastic view of the Silvretta and the imposing Fluchthorn. From here we cycle up another 150m before ditching our bikes. Then it’s a hard foot slog ever upwards following the Georg Prasser path to a couple of mountain lakes. These form the Brüllersee, at 2490m, and the snow covered peaks are reflected in the waters.

Hohe Köpfe is only another 100m or so upwards, and it’s an easy climb to the summit. We make our way back down to the bikes and then enjoy a hearty sausage lunch at the Friedrichshafener Hütte. On our way down we pass some of the competitors for the E-Bike Championships. They’re covered in mud and look as tired as I am. Back in Ischgl, I soak my weary limbs at the newly opened Silvretta Spa. 

Silvretta Spa

The French Ardennes is an isolated region of France that offers a wealth of natural beauty, historical charm, and outdoor activities.

The French Ardennes, in north-eastern of France, right next to Belgium, is a region of rolling hills and deep valleys. Dense forests cover almost half of the region and the meandering River Meuse, running from north to south, is home to fortified castles and churches with numerous colourful towns and villages on its banks. The largest of these is the capital, Charleville-Mézières, actually a combination of two former towns.

Culinary delights also await in the region. Indulge in traditional dishes such as the famous Ardennes ham, succulent wild boar stew, or the region’s renowned creamy Rocroi cheese. Pair your meal with a glass of locally produced cider or beer for a true taste of the region’s gastronomic treasures.

Access from the UK is relatively easy by train and is also environmentally friendly.  I take Eurostar to Paris, around two hours, then TGV to Reims and finally a local train to Charleville-Mézières. Total transit time, five and a half hours.

Charleville-Mézières

In 1606, Charles de Gonzague, the Duke of Mantua, founded the city of Charleville as his personal residence, opposite the town of Mézières on the banks of the Meuse. Designed by renowned architect Clément II Métezeau, the city has a geometric layout, wide avenues, and elegant squares, reflecting the grandeur and ambition of its founder.

The grandest is the majestic Place Ducale, a splendid square inspired by the Place des Vosges in Paris. It’s lined by arcades, housing elegant shops with a central fountain and it’s a vibrant hub for locals and tourists alike. Stroll through its cobbled streets, cross the river, and admire the impressive 15^th century Basilique Notre-Dame d’Espérance, in Mézières. It contains around 1000 square metres of stained glass created by René Dürrbach, a friend of Picasso.

Arthur Rimbaud, the renowned French poet was born in Charleville on October 20, 1854, and spent his formative years in the town, before running away to Paris when he was seventeen. He died young in Marseilles and his remains were brought back to the town’s cemetery in 1910. His grave, and the house where he grew up, form part of the Rimbaud Trail and there’s an excellent museum in an old watermill on the banks of the Meuse.

Charleville is a major international puppetry centre and every two years it hosts one of the largest puppet festivals in the world, the Festival Mondial des Théâtres de Marionnettes in September. For ten days professional troupes from all over the world stage around fifty shows a day both inside and out. The Puppet Museum has a collection of intricately crafted marionettes and there are occasional performances at the Institut de la Marionnette.

Ardennes Regional Nature Park

Charleville-Mézières is the gateway city to the Ardennes Regional Nature Park, in the north of the department, with a surface area of 117 200 hectares, and home to 92 small towns. It’s a lush green territory full of forests, hedged farmland, dry grassland, peat bogs, rocky escarpments and rivers. Outdoor leisure activities such as walking, cycling, mountain biking, horse-riding, fishing and kayaking are popular here.

Walking Map

The Park counts over 1000km of marked footpaths, some easy but others more challenging. These include four GR’s, long distance trails – the GR12 connects Amsterdam to Paris and the GR354 goes all to way to Santiago de Compostella, the Way of St Jacques.

One of the most popular destinations is the 150 hectare Vieilles Forges Lake. It offers a host of activities including swimming, windsurfing, paddle-boarding, canoeing and kayaking and you can also fish from its banks. The lake is surrounded by forests but a trail runs along its banks for nearly 12km, an easy afternoon walk

Nearby in the heart of the forest, just outside Signy-l’Abbaye is another circular hike, Le Sentier n°56 “La source de la Pichelotte” It’s almost all inside the forest, a mix of beech and pine, and crosses streams and valleys. You’re unlikely to meet other walkers and allow four hours for the walk.

Monthermé

Monthermé

North of Charleville, the Meuse winds through deep valleys with dramatic wooded cliffs on both sides. The town of Monthermé is right in the heart of the Ardennes Forest, and the river makes a wide loop here. Canoeing, biking and walking are all on offer and the trails are tougher here. The Paths of Legends Loop is a five hour strenuous hike starting and ending in the town.

The walk starts with a steep climb up to the Roche à Sept Heures, worth it for the panoramic views of the river bend, with the town spread out below. Follow the ridge to Roc la Tour before dropping back down to the banks of the Meuse and walk in the other direction. The trail soon climbs into the woods leading up to the rock formations of ‘Les 4 Fils Aymon’. 

Legend says that these four brothers left the court of Charlemagne after accidentally killing his nephew. Bayard, a magic horse, carried all the brothers on its back, leaping across hills valleys, and they took refuge in the Ardennes Forest. With the help of their cousin the wizard Maugis, they built the castle Montessor. But Charlemagne soon discovered where they were and they were forced to flee.

Sculpture by Albert Poncin

Just above the village of Bogny-sur-Meuse, on the original site of the castle, is a monumental sculpture by Albert Poncin representing the four brothers and their horse. After crossing the river into the village a steep climb leads to two fantastic viewpoints, the Point de vue de L’Hermitage and the even more impressive Rocher de 7 Villages. It’s then a gentle walk down back to Monthermé for a welcome glass of the local beer.

Pilgrims have been making their way on foot (and cycle) to the great cathedral at Santiago by various “Ways”, the most popular being the Camino Frances, or the French Way. These days it’s difficult to avoid the crowds so the Camino del Norte is a more strenuous alternative with less people.

The Camino del Norte spans 822km, following the Bay of Biscay, from Irún, on the French border, to Ribadeo, before cutting inland towards Santiago. The full route takes about five weeks to complete but I’ve only got six days. So, I’m just going to walk the section along the coast, starting in San Sebastian and ending up in Bilbao.

The logistics mean I arrive on a Vueling flight from London in Bilbao and then take the bus to San Sebastian. It’s less than two hours this way, but covering the same ground on foot will take me six days. The green rolling hills, studded with quaint Basque farmhouses and lush forest, will be my constant companions for the next week.

San Sebastian to Zarautz 24km

It’s hard to leave the beautiful city of San Sebastian, with the sea looking very inviting, as the trail follows the long sandy beach. It soon climbs up to the headland beyond, well signed, and then follows the road to Orio. This is an attractive fishing port and I cross the bridge over the river and climb out of the town.

I now leave the coast and stroll through rolling hills, covered with vineyards and the occasional church. Soon, though, I’m back to the sea and drop down to Zarautz’s sandy beach, at 2.8 km, the longest in the region. At the far end is the resort, made popular in the early 20^th century by the Belgian royal family who came here for their holidays. I’ve planned to take a dip in the sea, but I’m thwarted by heavy rain.

Zarautz to Deba 26km

The weather is improving and I take the road, following the coast to the fishing town of Getaria. From here it’s a steep uphill, on dirt roads and paved tracks, then a gentle descent to Zumaia, another typical Basque fishing port. Out of town, I leave the Camino to follow an alternative route through the Basque Coast Geopark.

This is a spectacular diversion with dramatic coastal scenery, layered sandstone cliffs sweeping down to the sea. These Flysch deposits, in alternate layers, record rapid changes in sea level. Over 60 million years they were pushed upwards, forming the strata I can see in front of me. Of course steep cliffs mean a lot of ups and downs and, by the time I arrive in Deba, I’m ready to drop.

Deba to Markina-Xemein 26km

I’m staying slightly out of town so I retrace my steps and cross the river. Then make a steep climb on a good track to the Ermita del Calvario. Here’s there’s an old Probadero, used by farmers to test the strength of oxen by getting them to drag rocks over cobblestones.  The path carries on past Olatz on a mixture of roads and forest tracks, completely rural apart from, the occasional farm.

It’s a hot day and it’s important to stop for water breaks. As I result I end up chatting with my fellow pilgrims. There can’t be more than a handful, but they’re from all over the world including an elderly couple from China. Finally the track descends steeply to Markina-Xemein, a small town with a huge black marble quarry. My agro-tourism is just beyond which means I’ll have a head start tomorrow.

Markina-Xemein to Gernika-Lumo 25km

It’s a beautiful sunny morning and the first village is Ziortza-Bolibar, with its Simón Bolívar museum. His family left here for South America in the 16^th century and he was born there four generations later. Just beyond, at the Monastery of Zenarruza, the priest offers to stamp my Camino pass but I tell him I’m not going all the way.

Steep steps lead down to the village of Munitibar, then Olabe, on a mixture of roads and paths. It’s getting very hot and there’s some welcome forest cover as I follow a stream. Then one last push uphill, with no shade, for a view over the modern city of Gernika.

The old town was destroyed by Franco’s bombers in the Spanish Civil War and they’ve not forgotten. Huge photographs in the square document the devastation and there’s a tiled version of Picasso’s famous painting nearby.

Gernika-Lumo to Larrabetzu 20 km

First, I make a visit to see the remaining sapling of the old oak tree where the Lords of Vizcaya gathered over the centuries to swear allegiance. Then it’s an uphill climb on the usual mixture of paths and forest tracks to 330m, before dropping down to the road. Still more climbing takes me up to the Altos de Morga and Aretxabalgane.

It’s very warm and I’m struggling but thankfully it’s now downhill to the village of Goikolexea followed by a long flat stretch of road. On its sides are painted slogans: “Freedom for the Basque Country and Their Political Prisoners” and “This is not Spain nor France – Euskal Herriak Indepentzia”. Soon I arrive in the pleasant town of Larrabetzu and celebrate with a beer in the main square.

Larrabetzu to Bilbao 14.1 km

I’m staying in a farmhouse above the town and I wake to thick mist. I’ve contemplated taking an alternative path over the hills, but visibility is zero so there seems no point. So, for two hours I follow the road through a cluster of small industrial towns, before turning into the forest. The trail goes upwards on a mix of road and track.

At the top is Monte Avril, a pleasant urban park with extensive views of Bilbao below. Unfortunately it’s still slightly misty, so visibility is limited, but I can make out my final destination. I drop down steeply, on a long series of steps, and arrive in the city at the Plaza de Unamuno. This is the heart of Bilbao’s Casco Viejo and my hotel is close by.

This is the end of my Camino, even though it’s still around 550km to Santiago. It’s been an exhilarating week, walking through the heart of the Basque country, fairly strenuous, but certainly rewarding. Food and wine have been excellent throughout and I’m now looking forward to Bilbao Pintxos, those Basque style tapas.

Factfile

GO: Camino Ways, the Camino experts, organise self-guided tours on the Camino de Santiago, including the Camino del Norte.  A 7 night self-guided tour walking from San Sebastian to Bilbao starts at €905 (around £810) per person sharing, including accommodation in private en-suite rooms, breakfast, 4 dinners, luggage transfers, online tour pack with practical information and 24/7 assistance number. 

Vueling offers connections between the UK and Spain and flies to Bilbao from London Gatwick seven days a week, averaging 22 weekly flights over the summer season. Single flights to Bilbao start from £28.86. There are currently 23 direct routes on sale for the summer season from the UK to Spain and other European destinations. Vueling also partners with Avikor to offer Sustainable Aviation Fuel to travellers, with over 100,000 holidaymakers opting to contribute over the last year.